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February 09 Why is Michel Rolland so helpful and why is he consulting for so many high end wineries?Unlike a well known movie in which Michel Rolland plays a
character that is snobby, obnoxious, and uninterested in winemaking concerns
and difficulties, Michel is down to earth and modest. He has been working with
me quite a bit and I greatly value his opinion.
Michel Rolland consults today for hundreds of wineries throughout the world which means his experience grows exponentially. He is continuously faced with many more issues than winemakers working with just one winery. Therefore, he is able to offer accurate and in-depth advice on virtually any issue or problem that may arise. In addition, Michel travels to many different climates and parts of the world, meeting many interesting people. He has the opportunity to taste more wines than any winemakers I have known. Michel’s experience is definitely very valuable to a company, especially a new one such as Alpha Omega. When I decided to approach Robin and Eric regarding contacting Michel Rolland, I was quite concerned Michel would deny our project as we do not have a multi-million dollar winery. We were pleasantly surprised to hear he was very interested. His focus and attention has been on one thing and one thing only: the quality of the wine. Through his travels and extensive experience tasting a great variety of wines, his pallet has become very refined and yet has not become accustomed to one particular climate or aromatic profile of an appellation. His travels have provided the chance to be challenged by the characteristics of different wines. Moreover, Michelle Rolland has an amazing gift to be able to taste objectively. He is able to judge and discuss the quality of a wine with an open mind and offers this as his opinion. In addition he has great vision of what a blend will become. One may have many different wines and components to combine into a blend and Michel Rolland will estimate the quality and discuss a blend with the winemaker. The winemaker or owner will then choose a final blend. Michel talent lies in creating blends that maximize the quality of the components, producing a wine that will be excellent not only the day of the blending but will evolve into a spectacular wine over time. I think that is definitely the key to superior winemaking and creating consistently high quality wines. January 24 Michel Rolland at Alpha OmegaAlpha Omega had the pleasure to host Mr. Michel Rolland on January 11th as our consulting winemaker. Mr. Rolland- we enjoyed your visit January 19 The Great Foos-OffOver the past few months we have been engaging in a not so serious war of words with Hall Winery (www.hallwines.com) with respect to our now infamous foosball table. The verbal battle started over a minor difference in opinion…they thought they could beat us and we thought they were wrong! Since that point in time we have been sending guests back and forth between our wineries with different trash-talking messages just to make sure that they knew we meant business. It was touch and go for awhile as we originally had a date scheduled but certain members of their team became very afraid and wanted to postpone until after New Years so they could get more practice time in.
After New Year’s and upon receiving a few foosballs from the guests that we sent their way they finally agreed to come to Alpha Omega to settle the Great Foosball Debate. We had them over, poured some wine, consumed a little cheese and crackers, and then we got down to the business of our not so serious competition. That night we learned one of two things, either we have WAY to much time on our hands to practice playing after work and they have social lives that don’t involve foosball OR they are just not very good (by the way, we love you guys!). Two of their teams even suffered what we affectionately refer to as a “skunking” which means that they were unable to score a goal before one of our teams scored ten. This is a bad thing because we have certain rules about getting skunked that they must now own up to. While I cannot disclose just exactly what the penalty is for being skunked I can assure you that our one year anniversary party is going to be talked about for quite some time if they have the guts to abide by the rules.
December 08 Susan’s Blog StoryFor someone with a lot of passion for the winemaking process, moving from theory to witnessing actual practice is really exciting. My name is Susan Bishop and among other careers, I’ve spent 12 years in this industry and studied through the wine education program taking viticulture and making some wine at the college. But most of the winemakers I have come across, at seven different wineries, are pretty tight lipped about their practices and would rather not be grilled on what and how they do their job. Here at Alpha Omega I have verified, solidified and increased my first hand knowledge of winemaking by a huge amount in a short time. How do you perform wild yeast fermentation? So that “pastel patina” that coats the grapes really adds dimension and complexity to the wine? “Unbelievable,” I say, “red wine fermented in brand new French oak barrels with one head removed.” Even more amazing, “whole berry maceration; no crushing on our crush pad.” And just when I thought it couldn’t get more exciting and that the harvest was OVER, we took in grapes on Dec. 1 and 2 that have “Botrytis Cinerea, the noble rot.” We are making late harvest dessert wine from Botrytis Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon!” Jean says the conditions were quite excellent for this special wine this year. The acids are nice and high to counter balance the heavy sweetness we will see in this wine. I have been waiting to see this operation for more than a decade! It seems the making of dessert wine by this process is especially tricky and time consuming. Few winemakers want to bother, chance it, or challenge themselves this way. But I get to see the whole process from sorting the grapes to mixing the yeasts and watching it all ferment. Some of the Sauvignon Blanc is in barrels and some in tank. I think all the Semillon grapes are barrel fermented. Semillon grapes have tightly packed bunches and relatively thin skin, making them very susceptible to botrytis infection. Semillon grapes make up 80% of the blend in some of the most expensive wines in the world like, Château d'Yquem in Bordeaux. Jean has been making wine in Bordeaux. Sounds good to me. My personal enlightenment is fortunately due to the open communication and the sharing of winemaking activities on a regular basis by Jean and Henrik, the interns and the production staff. For me, this makes all the difference in being able to do my job well, with love and passion. I can convey the delightful nuances of AO winemaking to the public on a daily basis this way. Let me give you another example. One day last week Jean entered the tasting room from the cellar in his usual casual and uncomplicated but still larger than life style (after all he is 6 foot 5). He said, “Susan, what do you smell in this glass?” I appeared obviously puzzled with that “wait a minute, am I going to get in trouble if I say the wrong thing” look. He proceeded to tell me it was a 2006 Merlot. OK, so I swirled the glass a few times and took a deep breath, with nose poked into glass and I repeated the motion and smelled again. “Well,” I said, you might not like this but the aroma I get right off the top seems a little bit like a light vinegar.” Jean explained immediately that it was “yogurt” and “that tells me it’s undergoing malolactic fermentation. Malolactic fermentation smells like yogurt Susan!” Here is the winery I’ve been waiting for . . . one in which the winemaking staff takes the time and has the patience to give me a revealing answer. And it keeps coming. As I arrived on the Alpha Omega Property this morning I saw on the far edge of the pond a newcomer to the landscape, a Snowy Egret, standing proud and tall on his long rail thin legs. Over his matching long rail thin beak he is eyeing us all. Humm, I wondered how PD, the duck mascot for AO, feels about this avian addition. As I enter the Tasting Room I am tickled to see the counter is covered with a couple dozen lab-labeled bottles, a few glasses and dump buckets. Jean, Henrik and Marie, (an intern from France) are busy slurping, spitting and inhaling. What are we experiencing, I say to myself. I listened to the short conversations that followed and soon discovered I walked in on a Tasting Trial. I want to know and I will find out. It’s all in a days work now. My exhilaration rises as I see one more wonderful learning experience after another come my way. This place fascinates me even beyond the incredibly artistic winemaking style. There is an unusual spirit here. You can see it most clearly as the staff upstairs and downstairs takes on an amazing dynamic in all the after work social activities. Most pronounced is the heavy hitting “team” competition in the form of foosball tournaments. Yes, the winery invested most wisely in a foosball table and the rivalry has been on ever since. What a way to unwind on your lunch break. Well I have to let you in on something . . . I’m coming into this major social camaraderie of quite a few “30 somethings” from a couple of generations earlier. But, I am determined to join in the fun and games . . . I bought myself a foosball table for Christmas! The heat is on. November 21 Fermentation...!The second topic that I would like to discuss is naturally fermented wines versus inoculated wines. I have worked in the past with both ways and have become a defender of natural fermentation. My reasoning behind this is that I intend to follow nature and limit man and the impact on the grapes. The reason why I think it is this way, is I have a very strong desire to follow nature and limiting a winemaker’s detractions on grapes. A winemaker should know the full potential of his/her grapes based on the hard work that has been done in the vineyard all through the growing season. Letting the grapes go through a natural fermentation allows them to stay on the path to reaching their potential without trying to force the wine along the fermentation cycle. With every yeast strain a winemaker has to choose from, a certain number of traits will come along with that particular strain that can knock the wine off of the intended course I had planned for while in the vineyard. The second reason for using wild yeast is that I believe wild yeast allows a wine to start the fermentation at a slower rate extending the length of the first fermentation which I feel gives me a more complex wine in the long run. Making wine is not about speed so I never worry about trying to force the wine through any part of the process.
The other side of this argument is that by not adding yeast a winemaker risks something called “stuck” fermentation which means that the wine stops in the middle of the fermentation leaving residual sugar present in the wine. This means that the wine will tend to taste more like a dessert style wine which is extremely bad for red wines. A winemaker can try to fix a stuck fermentation but it is not an easy process. Along the same line of thinking I also do not inoculate the wine for the secondary fermentation known as malolactic fermentation where malic acid is converted to lactic acid in the wine. Most winemakers will call me crazy for making wines this way but so far I have yet to hurt a wine with this style and my wines have always managed to finish both fermentations. With this in mind I will continue to let the wines go through fermentation naturally since in my opinion is the best way to help them reach their full potential and make a great wine! November 17 Harvest Party by Erik, our Hospitality managerAfter dinner we decided to blow off some steam from three months of intense work, for the cellar crew that is, by having a company wide foosball tournament and some solid attempts at singing with our rented karaoke equipment. Henrik, our assistant winemaker, and I made it to the finals once again with our new Team Spaceballs jerseys (team photo in our gallery) only to lose to a lesser team in the form of Jean and Chelsea. I’m not saying that they cheated (because Jean is also my boss) but in going over the game film Henrik and I discovered some disturbing pre-game footage of Jean and Chelsea giving what appeared to be contraband supplements to their players. It did seem weird that their guys were kicking the ball harder and were also twice the size of our players but we didn’t think much of it at the time. Our plan of attack to get back into the winner’s circle is to train harder in the off season and try to catch their players off of the juice next time. With respect to the singing…..wow what can you say about the singing. One thing that I did learn last night about consuming wine is that it apparently gives you not only the confidence to sing in front of a large group of people but it can also give you superstar stage presence as well. The performance of the evening was turned in by our South African intern, and former lion-tamer, Danie. He dazzled us with what was actually and amazing beat-box performance that drew the love and admiration of the on-looking crowd. The runner-up to Danie would have to be Robin’s, A.K.A. Mr. President, rendition of “Get me to the church on time”. Complete with an authentic cowboy hat Robin blew the crowd away while security did their best to keep our female guests from rushing the stage in an attempt to get Robin’s phone number. All in all it was a great night, good times were had by all, and while a few of the people that I mentioned above may not agree 100% with my account of the evening this is my story and I’m sticking to it. Cheers, Erik Harvest is over!Now that harvest is over, I would like to talk a little
about a couple of sensitive topics that have been quite popular in the wine
industry over the past few years. First
off will be the epic battle between bottle closures: corks, synthetics, or capsules;
screw caps as you call it in English.
The second topic is natural fermentation versus inoculated fermentation . Let’s start with closure. A lot of people are now running away from natural cork for many different reasons, the first and the most important one will be, of course, the economical reason, that corks are getting more and more expensive. Demand of high quality corks has been exceeding supply which has been causing the price of high-end corks to skyrocket over the beginning of the new millennium. The result is that this has been driving an increasing number of wineries to look for alternative closures with screw caps currently leading the way. Coming from a Swiss background I have seen screw caps used for about 35 years on all the white wine from Switzerland made of Chasselas varietals, which tend to be fresh, kind of young, and non-aromatic varietals. That being said I believe this gives me an unbiased opinion on the topic which allows me to see both sides of the issue.
The reason that some wineries are using screw caps, aside from cost, is that they tend to drink the wine in the same year that it was bottled, therefore you do not need the cork. With bottle aging being the main issue between the two closures, this rationalization is usually what will push a winery to start using screw caps on their white wines.
The topic only starts to heat up when you bring bottle aging into the discussion. I personally believe that corks are used for aging, and since I design both my white and red wines to have aging potential, I use corks at Alpha Omega on all of our wines. The reason why I believe corks help with the aging process is due to the fact that they are porous and they aid in the slow transfer of oxygen which benefits the wine during its time in the bottle. To be fair, I should mention that I have had the chance to taste a lot of wine that has stayed in screw caps for thirty years and they have actually aged and evolved quite well.
That being said my biggest fear is that when you take a red wine that needs oxygen to be exchanged through the cork to soften the tannins and help mellow out the acidity, then close it with a screw cap closure, it will not allow the wine to reach its full potential for many years. Considering that the majority of wine consumers are not cellaring their wines for years on end this would mean that most wine drinkers would not be able to enjoy the wine at its peak. However, for the smaller number of consumers that enjoy cellaring their wines for many years, this is one attractive trait of screw caps. After weighing the pros and cons of both sides I am thinking that for now for the winery will be using corks to give us more reasonable aging recommendations and for branding purposes. We are starting a new brand and need to build it up, with corks giving the bottle a higher perceived value along with giving us the ability to add our brand on the side, this is only more reason to continue to use the more traditional closure. November 14 Cork? Screw cap? Which one do you choose?Coming soon, the time is coming to choose between these two closures. We hope you will be part of this debate, customers, winemakers... November 06 Chelsea discovers a corked bottle of CabWhile pouring wine for customers today, Chelsea discovered a corked bottle of Cab. She carefully marked it with a big X so that she could ensure that no other tasting room employee would pour the wine. Good thinking. She then opened a second bottle of Cab and found it to be pleasing. She put the two bottles, both good and bad, next to each other to share the news with her friend Kristine. When Kristine returned from lunch, Chelsea excitededly showed her the corked bottle and her designated X. Kristine poured a glass of this corked Cabernet, swirled it furiously and inhaled deeply in the glass. The Cab smelled tight, not corked, but maybe tight. Eagerly trying to appease her friend Chelsea, Kristine continued to swirl, breathe and taste, hoping to find what Chelsea had discovered to be true. Kristine conceded that the bottle could be off, not corked but perhaps off. The two girls put their heads together and decided to try the good and bad Cabs side by side. It was their plan to finalize their decision based on the comparison of the two. Again, good thinking on both accounts. Chelsea poured Kristine a glass of the good Cab. Kristine swirled, inhaled and in a moment announced, "That's the corked bottle!" The two girls giggled uncontrollably and thought about the catasrophe that would have arisen had the improperly Xd (good) bottle been thrown away and the corked, un-marked bottle of wine remained in the tasting room. Perhaps you had to be there, but it was a truly spectacular moment! November 01 Arienne & Celine's WorldOnce upon a time, in a world far far away - picture 1 Wonder Woman and the Devil met on all Hallow’s Eve and a battle ensued between these forces of good and evil… -picture 2 In the end, good prevailed over evil… - picture 3 But here at Alpha Omega Winery, good and evil can live in harmony. - picture 4 Every day at Alpha Omega Winery is an adventure. Thanks to Jean we have a lot of fun, even when he sends us to Taylor’s in our Halloween costumes on the very open and busy Highway 29 when no one else is in costume. Although we did not know each other before working here we have become fast friends. The winery as a whole has become a close group. When I’m not Wonder Woman using my super powers to fight evil, I work closely with Eric Sklar and Jean as the office manager while also perfecting my fine foosball skills whenever I have the chance. The Napa Valley has been home to me for many years (I grew up in Calistoga) and I am fortunate to live in such a beautiful area and work with a great group of people. When I joined AO I was told this is a really fun place to work and that has proven to be true- everyone works hard but there is never a dull moment. How many people do you know who eat a whole wheel of cheese in one sitting, keep pet flies, or know how to admire a hot view? When I am not evil, am I not( I am French…)? ... I assist Jean while also taking care of the blog (hopefully Arienne is there to correct my poor English), the website, and other administrative duties. I am from Champagne and came here for my husband’s work. I have been in the Napa Valley since January 2005. I have to say that it was a fabulous move- discovering a new culture and living with a language other than mine, even if it wasn’t so easy at the beginning. I am very lucky to have found this great company. I am pretty sure that I would not have found such a good job, team and manager in France… Thank you Jean! October 31 “..Almost almost there..” a word from the Assistant WinemakerMy name is Henrik Poulsen. I’m the Assistant Winemaker at AO Winery. Today we’ll be bringing in some of the last grapes for this years harvest. The fruit arriving today is sourced from a famous vineyard called To-Kalon located in the heart of Napa Valley.As with all the other blocks we’ve picked this year Jean and I have monitored this vineyard closely for several months and have been following the progress in ripeness intensively.Early on it was clear to both of us that this fruit was something extraordinary.With a weather forecast showing chance of showers end of this week it’s very satisfying that we’re able to have all our fruit picked at optimal ripeness and received at the winery before the rain really starts hitting us. With wine stained hands and inky-purple colored fingers (and teeth?!) and with days of 14-16 hours of hard work these guys are the “real winemakers” assisting with all the labor intensive work as pump-overs, punch-downs, must-transfer, pressing of grapes etc. As fermentation finishes we’ll be able to get back on normal hours, rack the wine off the skins/lees and transfer it to barrels. Here it will be “sleeping” for the next approx. 20 months before it’s ready for bottling. zzzZZZZZzzzZZ..zz…ZZzzzzzz October 27 The French side...My name is Marie and I am from France. I was born and raised in the region of Lorraine (near Germany) and studied in Toulouse which is in the south of France. Like Danie, I am working here as an intern this year. But it is not my first vintage; in fact, it is going be my sixth. I really enjoy working in the cellar. My passion is winemaking, my studies were in winemaking and my dream is to become a winemaker. As this is my sixth vintage, I would have to say AO has been my best experience so far. It is the smallest winery I have worked for, focused on producing very high quality wine. All that together has made this a great experience. Because AO is a small winery concerned with quality, I have had the opportunity to learn some new techniques, which has been very exciting. For example, I have learned about fermenting red grapes in barrels, which I had not done before. This is really interesting and it’s really amazing to be able to follow the process. I am really enjoying myself here because talking and working with Jean, the winemaker, has taught me a lot. He has the best philosophy about making wine-follow nature, follow the capacity of the grapes, and make the simple wish to realize the best wine quality. My California experience is really working out well so far and it has been a great pleasure. Everyday we have tones of fun- like fighting with brooms on the crush-pad or racing each other on dry ice carts- crazy things like that. The philosophy here (Jean’s philosophy) is have fun and work hard which makes for a good atmosphere. We are all crazy and are all crazy together in the winery. Actually, that’s why this experience has been the best one yet. October 25 Chelsea is joining the cellar crew for a dayMy name is Chelsea and I work in the tasting room at AO. I have been here about 2 months and this is my first job in the wine industry. I have been learning more than you can imagine and everyone has been so nice about teaching me, even if they tease me and are a little sarcastic with me. Everyone has been making sure that I know everything about our wine and winemaking in general. Jean allowed me to work in the cellar today to learn exactly what goes into making wine- the process and what you need to do to ensure the best quality. So today I actually went into a tank, got out all the skins after the juice was removed. I cleaned out the tank and was completely drenched with grapes skins everywhere! It was hard work but really fun. Also, using a hose I filled barrels for our Icon wine with grapes that had been sorted on the sorting table. That was pretty exciting because I have been talking about it with customers but I didn’t really understand the process. Jean took me aside and explained every single thing we were doing to make high quality wine for the Icon. So I actually stayed for a couple hours and, as it turned out, filled 13 barrels. In the end I was drenched all over- my shirt was drenched and I was very sticky. I realized from that one day that there is so much that goes into winemaking- what takes place in the tasting room and what goes on in the cellar are two completely different things. To say the least they allowed me to go in the cellar to work and really learn, shows a lot about the people who works here. The day was full of laughing and making fun of me. But, all in all, I am really glad I spent the day in the cellar… I may be think something completely different tomorrow, because I am going to be really sore. I must say that I have a lot more respect for the interns: Danie, Denise and Marie. Jean and Henrik too and the rest of the cellar crew. They really make this place what is it. October 19 Danie's interviewWe will have a little story from one of our interns, Daniel- who we all call Danie. Danie is from South Africa. He was referred by a good friend of mine, Yvonne at RRC in South Africa. Danie is a good man who is full of energy, kindness, and respect.
“My name is Danie Carinus. I am an intern from South Africa doing my first harvest in the States. Before I came here, I was quite the novice. When I walked in here the first day, I wondered what my working environment would be like. When I came in, I immediately got the idea that this is a different place. I met the crew and quickly felt comfortable as they are all such nice people and, it seemed, I would fit right in because everyone is as crazy as I am. It’s a very special team and I’m sure some of the experiences we’ve shared we will remember for many years to come. One day Jean said he would give us (the crew) a new Radoux Barrel and two rows of Merlot that surround the septic pound, we decided to call it the waste water head. Jean and Henrik helped us with the processing of the grapes and we also had a great time on the crush pad. We had a few beers, it was a good time! Then we pressed the grapes and finished up the product and, to top it all off, we didn’t have enough wine for the barrel. Jean gave us some of his wine just to fill it up- it’s really an awesome gift!!! Another gift has been the Napa experience they have given us. One day we went to taste grapes and afterwards had a nice sushi diner at Blue in St Helena. Everything hasn’t been rosy all the time- I’ve had a few messes. One time I had to tip the big white bin into the waste bin and didn’t have the cross ball on top of the forklift. I jumped in all the bins in the … now I am laughing (the interview is tape recorded) because Jean is coming around the corner, screaming “ Braai, Ja” in Afrikaans, that is the new word- he calls me “ Poephol”, which means asshole in Afrikaan. But he says it in a nice way, it’s like “I love you asshole,” kind of. Those are a few of the memories I have and I am sure we’re going to create a few more with this kind of team. I think a few more crazy things will happen so watch this space!” October 13 Halloween's coming....Our three trainees, which are the cellar workers, have a few troubles: their body saying slow down! We have one with busted wrist, one with a busted back and the other one whining about arms and legs. At the winery we have reached a state of tiredness, and a lack of concentration. We will not receive grapes during the next few days giving us a chance to slow down and give our team a little bit of rest. Last night was a tuff day for half of the team. We pressed some chardonnay and the pressing cycle is very, very long: four hours. This is done to retain the integrity of the fruit. The entire crew was here until 10pm and then came back at the winery at 6 o’clock this morning. The quality of the fruit and the wine is secure and that’s what counts. It was interesting: we ordered pizza, and had fun. We also received something I approved to the budget: a foosball table. Everybody is excited! We will place it outside under the tent for everybody to enjoy. We also have a pumping carving contest tonight on our deck. Check out the pictures! October 12 After the rain....After the rain we are having beautiful weather so a lot of people are stressing out and picking. Here at AO the rain has stopped and everything is dry, I feel I should pick however, I think it’s important to let the fruit hang, especially the reds. So we are getting ready for the second wave of grapes to come in. We are picking some more chardonnay tomorrow, two different blocks: 95 and rued clone. We are getting ready for the big cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. All the merlot are in, of course. But the petit verdot, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon are getting there. I visited all the vineyards this morning and, in my opinion, the closest varietal seems to be the petit verdot: one from Pope Valley and the other from Atlas Peak at Stagecoach. These two petit verdots seem to be really getting long and in 7 to 10 days should be coming in. The problem during this time of year is that the fog and low cloud layer burn off late in the morning. This does not allow the temperature to go up as much as we would like in order to get everything in. The brix are around 26- 26.5 for the Cabernet Sauvignon which is high. But the problem is a lot of them still have a little bite of green tannins and that is very over powering as expressed by the acidity. 2006 is a year of very high Malicacid because it was not burned off by high temperatures and it should actually stay quite intact in the grapes. Typically in vintages in California, the Malicacid has not burned therefore, it’s still present. When we taste grapes that Malicacid even makes the tannins of the skins and seeds become more harsh and crisp so we need to wait a little longer. October 09 The sun is back!After the rain we have beautiful weather with temperature reaching the high 80's-low 90's, literarily allowed the grapes to keep on ripening at very good pace and to drive out all the rains for this previous 2 days. These temperatures are allowing the grapes to mature and to extend maturation on the wine which is quite good for the complexity of the grapes. We have today, October 9th, all our merlot inside the winery , but all the cab's, cabernet franc, petit verdot, are still outside on the vineyard, benefiting from this great weather and that the complexity also our chardonnays are still out there, ripening slowly. On all the merlots that we have in the winery, we are starting natural fermentation. Grapes tasting after the rainAfter visiting our entire vineyards, after the rain I have noticed that it rained more than expected and the grapes are a little bite suffering of that water specially on chardonnays, but we asked all growers to do a rot pick, meaning to go throw and take all the pieces with beginning of rot to prevented for spend and out and make sure that the rain doesn't effect so much the quality of the wine. On red wines, the plants have already assimilated some of that rain and we can already sends a little bite of dilution on some blocks. So that will just do one thing and one thing only: delay the harvest and I can almost guaranty that we will pick some Cabernet Sauvignon in November. . |
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